Identify what is not operating properly and when it occurs. Then, please visit the "Service Options" section of our website, or click here. From there, you can choose one of the four service options available to you.
Generally the batteries and bulbs of Streamlight products are user-serviceable. Some other repairs require complex procedures, special tools, and can void the warranty and/or approval rating of the flashlight. Those repairs should be performed only by the Factory or an Authorized Repair Center. Contact the Repair Department at 1-610-631-0600 or toll-free at 1-800-523-7488 for specific information about a particular repair.
A spare bulb is located in the base of the lamp holder assembly. The Scorpion uses a high output xenon bi-pin light bulb. DO NOT TOUCH A HOT BULB. Allow the bulb to cool before handling. The bulb is under high internal pressure. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN HANDLING THE BULB. To change the bulb unscrew the head of the flashlight from the barrel. Firmly grasp the burned out bulb and pull it from the lamp holder assembly. To access the spare bulb turn the lamp holder assembly over so that the battery contact/cover is facing upwards. Remove the battery contact/cover by prying it upwards. The spare bulb is located in the recessed area in the center of the lamp holder assembly. Turn the lamp holder assembly over so that the bulb side is up. There are four holes visible in the bulb side of the lamp holder assembly. The pins of the bulb mount in the two holes that have square metal contacts abutting them. Carefully align the pins of the new bulb with the contact holes in the lamp holder. Push the bulb into the lamp holder. Use care to make sure that the pins are straight and that the bulb is firmly seated in place. Note: Don’t touch the new bulb with your fingers, If you do accidentally touch the bulb make sure to wipe it off thoroughly with a clean cloth.
Streamlight lighting tools are available in a wide variety of applications, but typically, there is no one light that works well in all situations. Flashlight choice depends on intended use. You need to consider your applications and how you will be using the light to select the light that's best for your specific needs.
We have a few tools to help you make the selection:
It’s all about balance. Lumens is the measurement of the entire light output, regardless of beam focus. Candela (peak beam intensity) is the measurement of the brightest spot in the focused beam, and takes into account both the output of the lamp (lumens) and the efficiency of the reflector.
If you often find yourself needing light down-range, such as in search and rescue operations, checking utility lines, or even rifle shooting, you may prefer
the HPL lights. These will give you the long-range lighting you need, with a more focused
beam for greater distances.
To learn more about the difference between Lumens and Candlepower (Candela Peak Beam Intensity), please visit the Guide to Choosing the Right Light section of this website.
The short answer is, you can’t. There is no universal method of measuring flashlight output, not even when the ratings are in the same units. A lumen rating is the total unfocused visible light output of EITHER (depending on the manufacturer) the bare bulb, or of the entire flashlight. A candlepower rating used by a flashlight manufacturer will usually be candela peak beam intensity. This is a calculated value based on measuring the hot spot in the focused beam and multiplying by a number found by squaring the distance between the photocell used for the measurement and the flashlight. What this number gives is the number of “standard candles” that would need to be burning to produce the same amount of illumination as the hot spot in the beam at the same distance as the measurement is taken. Because candela peak beam intensity is focused light and lumens refer to unfocused light, it is ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE to convert the two.
The choice of LED or Xenon largely depends on the application the light will be used for. LEDs can be good for close-in lighting for extended periods of time. Xenon is better for lighting objects at a distance.
Streamlight understands the need to see and be seen when you’re outdoors; whether you’re camping or tracking game. Green LEDs provide you with a bright green light that won't spook game or hinder your night vision, making them ideal for outdoor adventures. They are also bright enough to light your way and alert other hunters to your presence.
Streamlight offers a variety of lights with safety-green LEDs, including the ClipMate®, the Stylus®, Buckmasters® Stylus Pro® the Key-Mate®, the Buckmasters® PackMate®, and the Trident® with a single green LED or the Buckmasters® Trident® with three of them.
In addition, Streamlight has incorporated green LED and laser technology into our tactical weapon-mounted lights. The TLR-1® Game Spotter® has a green LED with an intense hot-spot for long-range identification. And if you’re looking for a rail-mounted light with a green aiming laser, we have the TLR-2® G and the TLR-4® G.
While most people assume that the term “C4” refers to the LED itself, it is actually Streamlight’s shorthand for a powerful combination of technologies. This includes the photonic crystal and thin film chip technology that enhance LED efficiency, Streamlight’s high quality reflectors which help focus and intensify the light, and expert Streamlight engineering design, which drives the operation of the light in such a way that maximizes the overall effectiveness of the LED chip.
Note that while you may still see C4® LED, we are moving away from using it on our packages and materials. One reason for this is because of the confusion of what C4® LED means to our customers. Be assured, however, that we are still committed to providing you the best LED technology backed by Streamlight-engineered reflector technology and expert design know-how.
No. Streamlight products are optimized and the components can be damaged or destroyed by the use of anything other than the recommended battery type. The use of improper or substandard lithium batteries can be especially dangerous.
Streamlight recommends the use of Streamlight Battery No. CR123A, Panasonic Battery No. CR123A or Duracell Battery No.123 with these products. Use of other batteries or mixing of used and new or different brand batteries may present a risk of leakage, fire, explosion and serious personal injury. Do not recharge, misuse, short circuit, improperly store or discard, disassemble or heat above 212°F (100°C). Keep away from children.
No. Routinely running the lamp until it extinguishes will drastically shorten the life of the battery. Lead acid batteries need to be fully charged. The higher the average charge on the battery, the longer it lasts. Deliberately draining a lead-acid battery will damage it quickly.
To find the part number for replacement batteries, please reference the Part Number List under the Documentation section of the product page on this website. Numbers on the older batteries may not be current. Multiple numbers on the same battery are for regulatory requirements.
Nickel Metal Hydride AA replacement rechargeable batteries seem to work okay. However, since the product was designed for alkaline batteries and we cannot possibly test all of the aftermarket replacements, we cannot recommend the use of any batteries other than alkaline.
Some Survivors have model information listed on them. Numbers on the older batteries may not be current. To find the part number for replacement batteries, please reference the Part Number List in the Documentation section on the product page of this website.
Streamlight does not support the use of batteries other than those specifically listed in the instructions. Normally the lamps and current regulators are designed for a specific type of battery, and using other batteries often results in poor performance, either low output or extremely short lamp life, depending on the battery types involved.
Generally yes. Streamlight charge cords use a common connector. The exception to this is the Ultrastinger fast charge systems that must use either vehicle 12V DC or the heavy duty AC charge cord that is supplied with the system.
First, see if there is power to the charger itself. Second, check to be sure that the flashlight is properly inserted into the charging system. If the red light still does not light, the flashlight and charger should be returned for repair. Please click here to visit our Service Options section of the website for more information.
As the battery approaches a fully charged state it is normal for the charger LED to alternate between lighting steadily and blinking. This process may take as long as 15 minutes to one half hour and does not indicate a charging problem.
The SL20XP/LEDs originally were shipped with a gray charger and that was the only charger that will work. The gray charger has an LED charge indicator since there are no LEDs on the switch housing. The flashlight's switch housing is made of black opaque plastic.
The current version uses the old (black) charger. The new ones have a translucent dark red switch housing that glows when in the charger. These work with either grey or black chargers and are shipped with black chargers.
Follow the guidelines in the instruction booklet included with the flashlight. Some products have a red and green light combination (Litebox, Vulcan). In that case green indicates a charged condition. Flashing red LEDs on the Stinger and Strion chargers indicate a charged condition.
No. Batteries have an expected number of charge/discharge cycles (the number varies by the type of battery). Streamlight fast chargers safely revert to a maintenance charge rate after the battery is charged.
The titanium model features six (6) 390 nm LED’s. The black version contains UV LEDs with two (2) different nano-meter ratings: three (3) 375 nm LEDs and three (3) 390 nm LEDs. The wavelength of the UV LEDs determine what types of UV images can be observed.
The 4AA is not suitable for recreational diving and is not a diving light. Water pressure against the switch will turn it on at as little as 15 feet. The current rating is IP67 which is one meter for 30 minutes.
No, the HPL head is configured differently than the Stinger® LED model. As a result, you cannot upgrade your Stinger LED to a Stinger HPL LED. Even though they might look very similar, they are quite different.
Some Glock® .40 caliber pistols, models 22 and 23, exhibit feeding malfunctions, either nose down or nose up (stovepipe), when used with tactical lights. The problems tend to occur with individual guns, with some pistols becoming totally unreliable while other identical, even close in serial number sequence, guns have no problems. Most models 22 and 23 are reliable.
A sensitive gun may malfunction with any tactical light - the TLRs, the older M models, and even Glock® own brand. There is evidence that the problem sometimes develops with use, and may progress until the pistol is unreliable even with no light attached.
On the basis of testing by Streamlight, we believe the problem is magazine related. It appears that the rounds are unable to rise fast enough for proper cycling. We have observed proper feeding for the first few rounds, consistent failures at mid-magazine capacity, and a return to proper feeding of the last few cartridges in the magazine.
We have tried both stronger and weaker recoil springs, and compound-action recoil buffers, all without success. Sometimes new magazine springs, either new Glock® or Wolff, will cure the problem. In one case of a pistol which was totally reliable when new but progressed to malfunctioning on every magazine, even with no light installed, we found two solutions which restored reliability, but which might not be acceptable to some users. The first was using 10 round capacity Glock® magazines. The gun will not cycle reliably with 15 round mags with their steeply stacked columns but works flawlessly with 10 round mags. The second solution was a new magazine follower from Brownells®, their part number 069-000-006. When used in a 15 round magazine with a new spring, reliability was restored. However, the follower would not lock the slide open after the last round.
Ammunition is also a factor with any weapon. Some brands and weights may be totally reliable while others jam repeatedly. Make sure your gun is thoroughly tested with your duty ammo.
Brownells® is a registered trademark of Brownells®, Inc.
Glock® is a registered trademark of GLOCK® Gesellschaft mbH.
There are two adjustment screws located on the laser housing (elevation and windage). There is only one distance where the bullet path will coincide with the laser. On a normal weapon, the sights are mounted above the bore line and are adjusted to look slightly down with relation to the bore line.
When the weapon is fired, the bullet "climbs" (actually, a bullet DROPS from the bore line from the moment it first leaves the barrel, but the bore is tilted upward slightly so the bullet is physically traveling upward for a short distance), crosses the sight line, reaches its upward peak (the peak of the "mid-range trajectory"), descends to cross the sight line a SECOND time, and after that it's all downhill. How the sights are adjusted, along with the muzzle velocity of the bullet (a 10mm is faster than a .45, and a rifle faster yet), determine where these points occur. The user must decide how high above or below the sight line the bullet can be allowed to strike and adjust the sights accordingly.
A laser is seldom mounted above the bore line. It is usually below or to the side. This means the bullet crosses the laser sight line ONLY ONCE. This point is the "zero range." For a laser mounted below the bore, at distances less than the zero range the bullet will be above the sight line. Beyond the sight line it will be below. The bullet will deviate from the sight line FASTER WITH A LASER than with conventional sights. If mounted to the side, the bullet will also deviate to the side of the laser line as well as up and down. In practice, an TLR-2® on a handgun can be adjusted to keep the bullet strike within about 2" high and 2" low out to about 100 feet, which is better than most people, and a lot of guns, can shoot.
Check the TLR Compatibility List list for information about TLRs and specific weapons. We
also have compatibility lists for our TLR-6 models - click here; as well as for our TLR-7 and TLR-8 models -
We do not recommend carry of a TLR equipped firearm without a proper holster. A proper holster should fully cover the trigger guard area, preventing accidental discharge of both the firearm and light.
Yes. Please note that the battery pack determines which safety approval ratings apply. The rating information is molded on the body. Any Survivor® LEDs that were made without the rating information ARE NOT APPROVED. Any Survivor® LEDs that were made without the rating information CANNOT BE UPDATED. The rating DEPENDS on the BATTERY that is installed.
The ratings are:
Class I, Division 1, Groups C & D (gas)
Class I, Division 2, Groups A, B, C & D (gas)
Class II, Division 2, Groups F & G (dust)
Class III (flammable flyings)
Temp. Code: T4 1 – With the ALKALINE AA pack, ALL ratings apply. 2 – With the BLUE rechargeable pack 90130, ALL ratings apply. 3 – With the BLACK Div 2 pack 90338, ONLY the Class I Div 2, Class II Div 2, and the Class III ratings apply.
This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER a Div 1 (and 2) OR a Div 2-ONLY depending on what battery pack is used. There is NO WAY to tell whether a Survivor LED is Div 1 or Div 2 – ONLY EXCEPT by looking at the battery pack.
ATEX (European) rating information is contained on a label on the body. II 1G Ex ia IIB T4 – when used with four 1.5V Size AA Duracell MN1500 Alkaline batteries ONLY. (Zones 0 and 1) II 2G Ex e ib IIB T4 – when used with Streamlight rechargeable battery 90130. (Zone 1) This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER Zone 0 or Zone 1 depending on what battery pack is used.
Not necessarily. The LEDs in the Twin-Task® will run on low batteries for some time after the Xenon bulb stops working. First try replacing the weakened batteries with fresh cells. If fresh batteries and a new bulb do not solve the problem please contact our Repair Department.
The unbreakable polycarbonate lens that is used on most of our lights will last for years. The lens must have sufficient airflow across it to keep it cool. Do not place the flashlight lens-down on any surface. If the airflow is restricted for even a short period of time, the lens can be damaged. Contact our Repair Department about replacement lenses.
There is nothing wrong with either LED. LED technology produces an unavoidably wide range of tints. Streamlight pays extra to buy the color bins that are closest to perceived white light. The light will always be bluer than an incandescent, and there will be more variation between identical products than with incandescent lamps.