Frequently Asked Questions


Q: How can I send a product in for service?
A: You have two options:

  1. You can have an Authorized Service Center (ASC), including the Factory facility, service your light. You can ship the product directly to these Centers. Many of them also offer walk-in service.
  2. You can receive Priority Service by completing our Online Service Request. For the fastest turn around at the Factory:
    • Select the light(s) you will be sending back by adding them to the cart and then simply checkout your cart and fill out some basic information for expedited services.
    • You will also be able to login later to track the progress of your Service Request and you will have a record of your request, which you should save.
    • If a problem is found that is not covered under the warranty, we will contact you with an estimated cost before proceeding.

To begin click here.

Please read this information.

When returning a light for Service, please include the following inside the package:

  • If you elected Priority Service, the printed online Service Request.
  • A copy of the proof of purchase, if available. If not available, state the date of purchase and from whom.
  • Your light(s).

    Q: Which lights have to be sent to the Factory for Service?
    A: The following lights must be returned to the Factory for service:

    • Portable Scene Light
    • Sidewinder
    • Survivor LED - Except for base plate and bezel assembly
    • TLR - Except for bezel assembly and switch plate
    • Vantage - Except for bezel assembly and switch plate
    • Sidewinder Compact
    • Knucklehead
    • Waypoint Rechargeable
    • SL-20L

    Q: How do I describe the problem when I request a repair?
    A: Identify what is not operating properly and when it occurs.

    Q: Is it possible to get a repair estimate?
    A: Yes. Indicate on your packing slip that you request an estimate and how you can be contacted.

    Q: What is the status of my repair?
    A: E-mails should be sent to and the Subject should be ATTENTION REPAIRS. Please indicate who you are, your address, phone number and the model of flashlight being repaired.

    Q: What is covered under warranty?
    A: Refer to the “Support” section of this website for the link to the “Warranty Information”. Or, follow this link.

    Q: Can I get replacement parts?
    A: Yes. There is a list of replacement parts in the Retail Price List section of this website.

    Q: Are there any repairs I can perform myself?
    A: Generally the batteries and bulbs of Streamlight products are user-serviceable. Some other repairs require complex procedures, special tools, and can void the warranty and/or approval rating of the flashlight (Those repairs should be performed only by The Factory or Authorized Repair Centers). Contact the Repair Department for specific information about a particular repair.

    Q: How do I change the lens on my Stinger?
    A: The Stinger lens can only be replaced with special tools. Return the Stinger to the factory or an Authorized Repair Center.

    Q: Where is the spare bulb located in my Scorpion? How do I change it?
    A: A spare bulb is located in the base of the lamp holder assembly. The Scorpion uses a high output xenon bi-pin light bulb. DO NOT TOUCH A HOT BULB. Allow the bulb to cool before handling. The bulb is under high internal pressure. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN HANDLING THE BULB. To change the bulb unscrew the head of the flashlight from the barrel. Firmly grasp the burned out bulb and pull it from the lamp holder assembly. To access the spare bulb turn the lamp holder assembly over so that the battery contact/cover is facing upwards. Remove the battery contact/cover by prying it upwards. The spare bulb is located in the recessed area in the center of the lamp holder assembly. Turn the lamp holder assembly over so that the bulb side is up. There are four holes visible in the bulb side of the lamp holder assembly. The pins of the bulb mount in the two holes that have square metal contacts abutting them. Carefully align the pins of the new bulb with the contact holes in the lamp holder. Push the bulb into the lamp holder. Use care to make sure that the pins are straight and that the bulb is firmly seated in place. Note: Don’t touch the new bulb with your fingers, If you do accidentally touch the bulb make sure to wipe it off thoroughly with a clean cloth.

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    Q: How do I choose the correct light for my application?
    A: Go to the Product Selector section of this website. Select the desired parameters presented in the left-hand side of the page and click on individual products for their information/specifications.

    Q: What is the difference between lumens and candlepower?
    A: Read the "Lumens and Candlepower (Candela Peak Beam Intensity)" section of the Guide to Choosing the Right Light.

    Q: How do I convert Candlepower to Lumens?
    A: The short answer is, you can’t. There is no universal method of measuring flashlight output, not even when the ratings are in the same units. A lumen rating is the total unfocused visible light output of EITHER (depending on the manufacturer) the bare bulb, or of the entire flashlight. A candlepower rating used by a flashlight manufacturer will usually be candela peak beam intensity. This is a calculated value based on measuring the hot spot in the focused beam and multiplying by a number found by squaring the distance between the photocell used for the measurement and the flashlight. What this number gives is the number of “standard candles” that would need to be burning to produce the same amount of illumination as the hot spot in the beam at the same distance as the measurement is taken. Because candela peak beam intensity is focused light and lumens refer to unfocused light, it is ABSOLUTELY IMPOSSIBLE to convert the two.

    Q: Why would I want LED’s instead of Xenon lamps?
    A: The choice of LED or Xenon largely depends on the application the light will be used for. LED’s can be good for close-in lighting for extended periods of time. Xenon is better for lighting objects at a distance.

    Q: Is it possible to buy my products directly from Streamlight?
    A: No. Streamlight uses a network of authorized dealers and distributors. You can find a list of dealers in the "Products" section of this website.

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    Q: What do I do if an alkaline battery "leaks" and damages my flashlight?
    A: Read "Lights Damaged By Leaking Alkaline Batteries".

    Q: What can I do to prevent the possibility of damaging my light with a swollen or leaky alkaline battery?
    A: Read "Care And Handling Of Your Batteries — Battery Do's And Don'ts".

    Q: Can I use rechargeable CR123 batteries in any of the Streamlight flashlights?
    A: No. Streamlight products are optimized and the components can be damaged or destroyed by the use of anything other than the recommended battery type. The use of improper or substandard lithium batteries can be especially dangerous.

    Q: Who's CR123 Lithium Batteries can I use with Streamlight flashlights?
    A: Streamlight recommends the use of Streamlight Battery No. CR123A, Panasonic Battery No. CR123A or Duracell Battery No.123 with these products. Use of other batteries or mixing of used and new or different brand batteries may present a risk of leakage, fire, explosion and serious personal injury. Do not recharge, misuse, short circuit, improperly store or discard, disassemble or heat above 212°F (100°C). Keep away from children.

    Q: Do I need to condition my lead-acid battery; drain it out and fully recharge it?
    A: No. Routinely running the lamp until it extinguishes will drastically shorten the life of the battery.

    Lead acid batteries need to be fully charged. The higher the average charge on the battery, the longer it lasts. Deliberately draining a lead-acid battery will quickly destroy it.

    Q: What is the part number for my battery? I found several numbers on the shrink-wrap.
    A: See the Retail Price List on this website for replacement batteries. Numbers on the older batteries may not be current. Multiple numbers on the same battery are for regulatory requirements.

    Q: Can the Streamlight Jr. Luxeon use batteries other than alkaline?
    A: Nickel Metal Hydride AA replacement rechargeable batteries seem to work okay. However, since the product was designed for alkalines and we cannot possibly test all of the aftermarket replacements, we cannot recommend the use of any batteries other than alkalines.

    Q: Is there any way to prevent the rechargeable Ni Cd battery from developing a memory?
    A: Research has shown that the "memory effect" is a rare phenomenon and is almost nonexistent in high-drain applications such as flashlights.

    Some tips to help prolong the life of Ni Cd batteries:

    • The light should be returned to the charger when it is not in use.
    • It should never be run until the battery is completely exhausted.
    • Return the flashlight to the charger when it begins to dim.

    Q: How can I tell which model Survivor I have? Which model uses which battery?
    A: Some Survivors have model information listed on them. See the Retail Price List on this website for replacement batteries. Numbers on the older batteries may not be current.

    Q: Can I use rechargeable batteries with LED lights?
    A: Streamlight does not support the use of batteries other than those specifically listed in the instructions. Normally the lamps and current regulators are designed for a specific type of battery, and using other batteries often results in poor performance, either low output or extremely short lamp life, depending on the battery types involved.

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    Q: Can I use the same charge cord for different chargers?
    A: Generally yes. Streamlight charge cords use a common connector.

    The exception to this is the Ultrastinger fast charge systems that must use either vehicle 12V DC or the heavy duty AC charge cord which is supplied with the system.

    Q: The red light on my steady charger does not light. What could cause this?
    A: First, see if there is power to the charger itself. Second, check to be sure that the flashlight is properly inserted into the charging system. If the red light still does not light the flashlight and charger should be returned for repair.

    Q: What causes the red LED on the Strion charger to flicker?
    A: As the battery approaches a fully charged state it is normal for the charger LED to alternate between lighting steadily and blinking. This process may take as long as 15 minutes to one half hour and does not indicate a charging problem.

    Q: Can I charge a Strion with my Stinger charger holder?
    A: No. The Stinger and the Strion are different sizes and their battery chemistries and charging systems are completely different.

    Q: Does the SL20XP/LED take a different charger than the standard SL20XP? I have two new lights that I can't get to charge. Suggestions?
    A: The SL20XP/LEDs originally were shipped with a gray charger and that was the only charger that will work. The gray charger has an LED charge indicator since there are no LEDs on the switch housing. The flashlight's switch housing is made of black opaque plastic.

    The current version uses the old (black) charger. The new ones have a translucent dark red switch housing that glows when in the charger. These work with either grey or black chargers and are shipped with black chargers.

    Q: How can I tell when my flashlight is fully charged?
    A: Follow the guidelines in the instruction booklet included with the flashlight. Some products have a red and green light combination (Litebox, Vulcan). In that case green indicates a charged condition. Flashing red LED’s on the Stinger (fast) and Strion chargers indicate a charged condition.

    Q: I have the steady charger. Will the fast charger shorten the life of my battery?
    A: No. Batteries have an expected number of charge/discharge cycles (the number varies by the type of battery). Streamlight fast chargers safely revert to a maintenance charge rate after the battery has been charged.

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    Product Specific

    Q: Can the Fire Vulcan be field-modified to have a mode in which the main bulb is steadily lighted and the taillights flash?
    A: No. This would require a factory modification of the circuit board and is not currently available.

    Q: Can I convert my SL-20, 20X, 20XP or 35X to an LED model?
    A: No.

    Q: What is the difference between the Titanium TT-3C UV and the Black TT-3CUV?
    A: The titanium model features (6) 390 nm LED’s. The black version contains UV LED’s with 2 different nanometer ratings: (3) 375 nm LED’s and (3) 390 nm LED’s. The wavelength of the UV LED’s determine what types of UV images can be observed.

    Q: Is the 4AA waterproof and suitable for recreational diving?
    A: No. The 4AA really isn’t a diving light. Water pressure against the switch will turn it on at as little as 15 feet. The current rating is IP67 which is one meter for 30 minutes.

    Q: Can I mount a Stinger on a weapon?
    A: Streamlight does not currently make weapons mounts for the Stinger. We have not thoroughly tested the Stinger in weapons mounted applications although limited testing has shown no problems.

    Q: Is there a Stinger HP LED upgrade kit for the Stinger LED?
    A: No, the HP head is configured differently than the Stinger LED model and can not be upgraded to a Stinger HP LED even though they might look very similar, they are quite different.

    Q: Are there Issues Using Tactical Lights on Glock® Pistols?
    A: Some Glock® .40 caliber pistols, models 22 and 23, exhibit feeding malfunctions, either nose down or nose up (stovepipe), when used with tactical lights.  The problems tend to occur with individual guns, with some pistols becoming totally unreliable while other identical, even close in serial number sequence, guns have no problems.  Most models 22 and 23 are reliable.

    A sensitive gun may malfunction with any tactical light - the TLRs, the older M models, and even Glock®’s own brand.  There is evidence that the problem sometimes develops with use, and may progress until the pistol is unreliable even with no light attached.

    On the basis of testing by Streamlight, we believe the problem is magazine related.  It appears that the rounds are unable to rise fast enough for proper cycling.  We have observed proper feeding for the first few rounds, consistent failures at mid-magazine capacity, and a return to proper feeding of the last few cartridges in the magazine.

    We have tried both stronger and weaker recoil springs, and compound-action recoil buffers, all without success.  Sometimes new magazine springs, either new Glock® or Wolff, will cure the problem.  In one case of a pistol which was totally reliable when new but progressed to malfunctioning on every magazine, even with no light installed, we found two solutions which restored reliability, but which might not be acceptable to some users.  The first was using 10 round capacity Glock® magazines.  The gun will not cycle reliably with 15 round mags with their steeply stacked columns but works flawlessly with 10 round mags.  The second solution was a new magazine follower from Brownells®, their part number 069-000-006.  When used in a 15 round magazine with a new spring, reliability was restored.  However, the follower would not lock the slide open after the last round.

    Ammunition is also a factor with any weapon.  Some brands and weights may be totally reliable while others jam repeatedly.  Make sure your gun is thoroughly tested with your duty ammo.

    Brownells® is a registered trademark of Brownells®, Inc.
    Glock® is a registered trademark of  GLOCK Gesellschaft mbH.

    Q: How do I sight-in the laser on my TLR-2?
    A: There are two adjustment screws located on the laser housing (elevation and windage). There is only one distance where the bullet path will coincide with the laser. On a normal weapon, the sights are mounted above the bore line and are adjusted to look slightly down with relation to the bore line. When the weapon is fired, the bullet "climbs" (actually, a bullet DROPS from the bore line from the moment it first leaves the barrel, but the bore is tilted upward slightly so the bullet is physically traveling upward for a short distance), crosses the sight line, reaches its upward peak (the peak of the "mid-range trajectory"), descends to cross the sight line a SECOND time, and after that it's all downhill. How the sights are adjusted, along with the muzzle velocity of the bullet (a 10mm is faster than a .45, and a rifle faster yet), determine where these points occur. The user must decide how high above or below the sight line the bullet can be allowed to strike and adjust the sights accordingly. A laser is seldom mounted above the bore line. It is usually below or to the side. This means the bullet crosses the laser sight line ONLY ONCE. This point is the "zero range." For a laser mounted below the bore, at distances less than the zero range the bullet will be above the sight line. Beyond the sight line it will be below. The bullet will deviate from the sight line FASTER WITH A LASER than with conventional sights. If mounted to the side, the bullet will also deviate to the side of the laser line as well as up and down. In practice, an TLR-2 on a handgun can be adjusted to keep the bullet strike within about 2" high and 2" low out to about 100 feet, which is better than most people, and a lot of guns, can shoot.

    Q: Will the TLR's fit my gun?
    A: Check the compatibility list for information about TLR's and specific weapons.

    Q: I bought a Survivor LED with an alkaline battery pack. Can I upgrade to a rechargeable battery?
    A: Yes. The battery pack will determine which safety approval ratings apply. The UL/CUL rating information is molded on the body. Any Survivor LEDs that were made without the rating information ARE NOT APPROVED. Any Survivor LEDs that were made without the rating information CANNOT BE UPDATED.

    The rating DEPENDS on the BATTERY that is installed.

    The ratings are:
    Class I, Division 1, Groups C & D (gas)
    Class I, Division 2, Groups A, B, C & D (gas)
    Class II, Division 2, Groups F & G (dust)
    Class III (flammable flyings)
    Temp. Code: T4

    1 – With the ALKALINE AA pack,  ALL ratings apply.

    2 – With the BLUE rechargeable pack 90130, ALL ratings apply.

    3 – With the BLACK Div 2 pack 90338, ONLY the Class I Div 2, Class II Div 2, and the Class III ratings apply.

    This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER a Div 1 (and 2) OR a Div 2-ONLY depending on what battery pack is used.

    There is NO WAY to tell whether a Survivor LED is Div 1 or Div 2 – ONLY EXCEPT by looking at the battery pack.

    ATEX (European) rating information is contained on a label on the body.
    II 1G Ex ia IIB T4 – when used with four 1.5V Size AA Duracell MN1500 Alkaline batteries ONLY. (Zones 0 and 1)
    II 2G Ex e ib IIB T4 – when used with Streamlight rechargeable battery 90130. (Zone 1)
    This means the SAME LIGHT can be EITHER Zone 0 or Zone 1 depending on what battery pack is used.

    Q: I have a Twin Task that ran well for many hours. Recently the Xenon bulb stopped working but the LED's still function. I have replaced the Xenon bulb but it still does not light. Do I need to send the flashlight for repair?
    A: Not necessarily. The LED's in the Twin Task will run on low batteries for some time after the Xenon bulb stops working. First try replacing the weakened batteries with fresh cells. If fresh batteries and a new bulb do not solve the problem please contact our Repair Department.

    Q: The lens on my flashlight appears have been damaged by the heat from the bulb.
    A: The Unbreakable polycarbonate lens that is used on most of our lights will last for years. The lens must have sufficient airflow across it to keep it cool. Do not place the flashlight lens-down on any surface. If the airflow is restricted for even a short period of time, the lens can be damaged. Contact our Repair Department about replacement lenses.

    Q: The color of the light from my LED flashlight looks different than the light from the same model flashlight when I shine them on the wall together. Is one LED defective?
    A: There is nothing wrong with either LED. LED technology produces an unavoidably wide range of tints. Streamlight pays extra to buy the color bins which are closest to perceived white light. The light will always be bluer than an incandescent, and there will be more variation between identical products than with incandescent lamps.

    Q: I accidentally struck my Vulcan against a fixed object and the bulb came out of the socket. Is there a way to keep this from occurring again?
    A: Streamlight constantly reviews customer feedback and integrates it into design changes and improvements. A new upgrade, kit p/n 44140, is available to ensure bulb retention.

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